How can I stop my dog
pulling on the leash?

IF YOU are an owner being dragged along by your dog, then this information is especially for you.

The first thing you should ask is: 'Why is my dog pulling?' Perhaps it's because when your dog pulls, you follow - which means that your dog is being rewarded for the very thing you don't want! This means that it is your dog who is taking you for the walk rather than vice-versa.

If you are giving a tug now and again, have you ever thought about how your dog sees this? In order to give a tug, the lead has to be slack. So, you have a slack lead, followed by a tug. This effectively means that the dog is being punished for having a slack lead! Worse still is that jerking on a lead can cause the spine to move out of alignment, often causing pain, and numerous dogs end up with behaviour problems as a result of this.

While your dog is pulling it may be best to use a harness and a long lead of about two metres or more. The harness will not stop your dog pulling but it will protect him from any possible spinal or thyroid damage from pulling on the collar. If you do not have access to a harness and must use a collar, make sure the collar is wide enough to cover two vertebrae and is preferably soft and padded.

Start by attaching a two-metre lead to your dog's harness. Keep this lead on whenever you are working on training him to walk without pulling. The lead needs to be long in order that your dog can still sniff and explore, allowing him to make choices. It is better that he chooses to walk nicely as this will be a lifelong lesson. He needs to learn that pulling brings no reward and that you will not follow when he pulls.

First of all, condition your dog to a word or, preferably, a neutral sound such as the clicking sound horse riders use to get a horse to move. It needs to be a sound you only use for this training and not anywhere else at all (do not use a clicker for this exercise). Condition your dog by making the sound then treating him with something nice like a small piece of meat, cheese or biscuit etc. The environment you use is important if you are to succeed, so choose the easiest place for him to concentrate on you, even if it is your kitchen!

When you are confident your dog will come directly to you every time you make the noise, even around distractions, then we can take the training to the next level.

In a field, or somewhere away from distractions, begin to take a few paces away from your dog. As you start moving, and every time you change direction, make your sound as you are about to turn and treat your dog as he rushes up to get his reward. Each time your dog pulls, STOP walking and hold your treat by your side, encouraging the dog to approach you from behind so that he is rewarded for walking by your side. Hold the lead into your waist so you have maximum strength to hold your dog so he cannot pull you over. Your waist is your centre of balance and you are less likely to pull your dog if you already have your hand in tightly to your waist.

As soon as your dog starts to look around, make your sound and treat your dog when he comes to you, then carry on walking. Repeat this every time your dog pulls or you change direction, but make sure you don't wear out the sound you have chosen. If your dog ignores you and does not come back to you, ignore him, wait until he turns his head slightly and then make your sound again bringing him back to you with the treat. Never tug or pull him.

The dog needs to learn that he goes nowhere when he pulls, but as soon as he takes the pressure off the lead, he is allowed to continue to walk. Never get tempted to shorten the lead, leave it the full length for him and he will learn more easily.

Remember to give your dog a reward (a tasty treat produced when he isn't expecting it) as opposed to a lure which people wave in front of the dog's face and consequently he doesn't learn anything as he is so focused on it!

Repeat this three or four times and then give your dog a break, allowing him to sniff, but not doing any other exercise with him, and also not playing with him. Just let him be.

When you have mastered this, take it to the next level by making your sound before you go to turn and every time just before your dog goes right out to the full length of his lead. Just before he gets to the full length, make your sound and have your dog come back to you and treat him so he learns not to go to far away. This puts the responsibility upon your dog to keep the lead slack if he wishes to continue his walks. Make sure you never pull back on the lead if your dog pulls.

You can then begin to teach this loose lead walking in different environments and then with different distractions. While he is learning remember to always treat and praise him every time he responds to the sound. The treats can be faded out at a later date when you have perfected the loose lead walking but treats should never be faded out completely. They are, after all, your dog's reward, just as we humans enjoy a reward for our efforts from time to time.

This loose lead walking is not an obedience heel. This is for you and your dog to have an enjoyable walk together without the power struggle of pulling going on.

If you do train your dog to do an obedience heel, then please teach your dog to walk on both sides so that the muscles on both sides of his neck will be developed, or you may end up with a dog with muscular problems around his neck area. Try walking with your head turned to one side all the time and you will understand how the dog feels doing it.

A geat book I recommend is: 'What do I do when my dog pulls' by Turid Rugaas. - Nicole Mackie