THERE seems to be a lot of controversy today over which training equipment is the best to use on our dogs and which equipment works for the best... what causes pain and what does not. However, have we thought about asking our dogs which equipment they prefer?
An article written in British magazine Dogs Today, writes about German research, which was carried out on 100 dogs. Fifty of these dogs wore check chains throughout their lives and the other 50 wore prong collars all their lives.
At the end of each dog's life an autopsy was done and the results were documented. Of the 50 dogs that were exclusively on check chains, 48 had injuries to the neck, trachea or back. Two were determined genetic, the other 46 were caused by trauma. Of the 50 dogs wearing prong collars, two had injuries to the neck area, one was determined genetic and one was caused by trauma.
I am in no way endorsing prong collars over check chains. Prong collars work because the pain caused is greater, sharper and more of a shock. If you do not believe check chains or prong collars hurt, then try putting one around your arm and giving it a good pull. It hurts. The majority of dogs that are seen by behaviourists as aggression cases, have either had painful equipment used or alternatively something else really unpleasant has happened that they have associated with people, children or other dogs.
These collars appear to work in the short term because they shock the dog out of doing something wrong that he is thinking about at that instant. Dogs learn by association. What the dog experiences at the time of something pleasant or unpleasant happening (such as seeing, smelling, tasting, hearing or feeling) can stay with him and completely alter the way he regards that particular thing.
For example a dog wearing a check chain, which acted like a bite on the neck, gave him such an unpleasant shock that he began to associate the pain with children and other dogs, as he happened to be looking at them when he accidentally got a check. He then thought they had caused the pain, started to bark and lunge to keep them away, and finally became so defensive that he would go for them.
Humans are excellent at finding the most cruel methods for training their dogs, using equipment such as electric shocks, choking them with check collars and chains, invisible fences, bark collars that shock the dog when he barks, 'don't pull' type harnesses designed to cause discomfort, shock cushions used to prevent dogs getting on the furniture, pinching the dogs paws or kneeing him when he jumps up, ear pinching and many more cruel methods that we can think up in the name of training. We would not dream of putting ourselves through such pain.
Many pet stores throughout the United Kingdom will no longer sell such cruel training equipment. Choosing the right training equipment that does not cause your dog any harm or pain is a good start to building a trusting relationship with your dog. If you are not sure if a piece of equipment is harmful, think about whether or not it is hurting your dog or making him feel uncomfortable. If you answer yes, then it is most likely doing your dog harm as well as harming your relationship with your dog.
There is a lot of good humane training equipment on the market today, such as wide soft collars and flat, well-fitted harnesses. A collar should cover at least two of your dog's vertebrae in order to reduce any damage to the neck area. Fine collars or chains can easily get in between the vertebrae and cause damage to the dogs thyroid glands, trachea or spine.
Many dogs become what appears to be aggressive because they are in so much back pain from being jerked on lead that they feel they have to defend themselves. If you have a dog that pulls on lead, it may be better to change to a flat, well-fitted harness, at least for a while until your dog learns not to pull through positive training methods. This will help protect your dog from any damage to his throat or spinal area while he is being trained. Once you have the pulling under control, you can then go back to a wide soft collar unless your dog likes the harness, which many of them come to prefer.
A long lead is better to use for your dog than a short lead. About two meters long is preferable. You can always shorten it a little if walking close to a road.
When walking your dog, make the walk an enjoyable one. Don't make your dog walk on a short lead making the dog keep up with your walking pace. Allow the dog to walk at his pace on a long lead, to sniff and explore the environment. This will be more enjoyable for your dog, more mentally stimulating and use more energy than just a straight long walk from A to B.
Never yank on the lead or pull the dog's head up, even if the dog is wearing a flat collar, this could have serious health implications, especially with a puppy. It causes stress, pain and spinal injuries even without the wrong collar.
When a dog uses his senses he is taking in a lot of information, he is reading the daily post (so to speak), who has been there, what has been there, why they were there, and so much more information that we humans do not know and cannot smell. A dog cannot take in so much information or experience so much mental stimulation when he is on a short or tight lead.
A dog does not need to walk in heel position, as this is very stressful for dogs and only necessary for competition work. Allow your dog plenty of lead allowing him to go out exploring to the end of the lead if he wishes.
If you have a pulling problem with your dog, please find a good training instructor who is using modern, up-to-date, positive reinforcement methods of training. Or refer to good books on this problem, so you and your dog can take enjoyable walks together from now on and build a good trusting relationship.
Recommended reading: Why does my dog pull on lead, by Turid Rugaas, Can't pull won't pull, by Alison Rowbotham. These books can be purchased by contacting Sheila Harper - sheila@qanuk.com.
